As often happens, we received the technology related to the production and use of MDF boards from the USA. The North American continent often supplies Europe with new technologies, most of which are truly useful and remain for a long time in various industries and fields.
Painting MDF began to be used overseas several decades ago, and in Russia this technique is just spreading.
The coloring of MDF boards is determined by the format of use of this material. Thus, MDF is virtually never used for external work. This material is not sufficiently resistant to moisture and temperature changes. In addition, MDF's strength and ability to withstand pressure also leave much to be desired. Finally, compared to some other materials, MDF panels are quite expensive to be used for facade cladding.
But the use of MDF boards indoors is quite extensive. Today, such slabs form the basis for wall decoration and the production of a wide variety of furniture (mainly cabinet furniture). Accordingly, painting of MDF panels always takes place indoors.
Types of paints for MDF boards
Let us immediately note that below we will talk about paints that are best suited for MDF furniture. However, painting MDF facades will be based in any case on the same principles - with minor adjustments to the specifics of the shape and surface.
As for the dyes themselves, they should be chosen not based on the brand or manufacturer (although, of course, this aspect also has a certain significance). However, it is much more important to pay attention to the features of a particular paint - application format, drying speed, composition, manufacturing method.
In addition, different cases may require different paint for MDF.
The following factors play a role:
- MDF size and shape;
- terms of use of the product;
- preferences in terms of design and aesthetics;
- question of cost.
Let's look at the main types of dyes for furniture facades made of MDF boards.
Water based dyes
These are the most simple, affordable and easy-to-use formulations. They are ideal for painting a large MDF surface quickly and with a sufficient level of quality.
The most important feature is the environmental safety of the paint and the absence of a suffocating unpleasant odor. This is great when it comes to painting indoors, even if it is unventilated. Water-based dyes are considered neutral for human and animal health.
From an aesthetic point of view, this type of paint for MDF also has room to roam. Most manufacturers offer both classic white paints and a wide range of colors.
Water-based dyes are those that can be used not only indoors, but also for outdoor painting.
Silicone dyes
Ideal for eliminating moisture problems and even water ingress. Silicone repels water and is resistant to high temperatures, as well as temperature changes.
If the room is periodically either very warm or very cold, the MDF boards will inevitably begin to slightly deform and periodically expand and contract. This imposes certain requirements on the paint - it must be able to elastically adjust (primarily, stretch) to changes in the shape and area of the MDF board.
A product painted with this composition is easy to clean. However, dust does not linger very actively on silicone, so the cleaning process happens quite rarely. MDF painted with silicone copes with this task perfectly and has no competitors in this aspect.
Acrylic silicone dyes
This is a mixed, borderline option between the first two types of paint. On the one hand, such dyes are environmentally friendly, safe, and have a mild odor. On the other hand, they are resistant to temperature, moisture and even mechanical influences.
Painting furniture parts made of MDF with such compositions protects it from wood bugs (relevant, for example, for garden furniture), drying out, mold and mildew, as well as any other microflora.
Polyvinyl acetate dyes
In this case, the main advantage of the coloring composition is its cost. If specific characteristics and specifics of paint application do not matter to you, then this is an ideal option.
It is believed that polyvinyl acetate-based paints are suitable for products and premises with minimal external influence. If the risk of mechanical stress, high temperature, excessive humidity, etc. is too large, it is better to give preference to other compositions. If there are no risks, then you can make a choice in favor of such paint.
Separately, it should be mentioned the need to correctly follow the stages of applying paint to MDF boards. Each manufacturer specifies its own requirements, and technologies often differ significantly from each other. That is why it is important to pay attention to the recommendations on the packaging and consult with the seller at the time of purchase.
The main danger when violating the dye application methodology is the possibility of peeling. In this case, the paint exists as if by itself in relation to the surface of the panel. A layer of air appears between the hardened paint and the product itself, and over time this leads to the deposition of dried dye.
Oil based dyes
Allows you to achieve the most aesthetically attractive effect. If the application technology is followed, the surface becomes smooth and glossy.
However, in addition to purely aesthetic characteristics, oil paints serve as excellent protection against moisture. In this sense, they could compete with silicone, if not for their low mechanical resistance.
A circumstance that requires additional mention in the context of painting furniture facades with oil compositions is adhesion, that is, the adhesion of the paint and the material itself. Getting the oil compound to adhere naturally to the MDF panel is not so easy. For maximum adhesion, it is better to use a primer. It must be applied to a dry and clean surface before painting.
Alkyd dyes
Here again we observe the property of elasticity, flexibility of the material, and ability to stretch, which is so useful for MDF. Alkyd enamels also form a noble, uniform surface with a matte sheen.
Acrylic paint for MDF facades is ideal when it comes to a working surface. Acrylic does not rub at all, does not pill, does not change color with repeated friction and is even resistant to chips.
The only negative quality of this type of dyes is their instability to heat and direct sunlight. This exposure causes fading very quickly, which is especially noticeable if colored paint was used.
Regardless of what type of paint was chosen, it is better to calculate the required quantity in advance so as not to make mistakes when purchasing. Please note that the consumption of different coloring compositions differs - some of them are more economical, others, respectively, less. Paint consumption per square meter of MDF paint manufacturers indicate packaging. Plus, this data is most often known to the seller.
It is always recommended to purchase paint with some reserve. This will allow you to safely cover the surface of the furniture façade with an additional layer, correct defects in painting and, in general, not be afraid to carry out high-quality painting.
The same goes for purchasing a primer to ensure adhesion. There is no point in skimping on primer - this almost always leads to rapid peeling of the paint, damaging the appearance and properties of the MDF panel. As a result, you will soon have to remove the layer of old paint and correct the situation. Thus, the paint consumption will be double.
Types of paints
Before painting finely divided fraction slabs, you always decide how to paint MDF. There are a large number of enterprises producing paints and varnishes. Therefore, it is possible to perform work using different types of paints, differing in characteristics and manufacturing method:
- Water based.
This is the most popular type of paint. It comes in different colors, is non-hazardous, and is used for painting large areas indoors and outdoors. At the same time, it has satisfactory performance characteristics.
- Silicone.
Silicone paint Source 2proraba.com
The use of this type of paint allows you to protect wooden surfaces from high temperatures and water. Dirt and dust are simply removed from slabs painted with silicone paints and varnishes. These are elastic compounds, which allow you to compensate for the thermal expansion of MDF.
- Acrylic-silicone.
This type of paint and varnish material is an environmentally friendly product. It prevents the appearance of moss on the surface and the proliferation of microflora. Acrylic-silicone paint for MDF is resistant to mechanical damage.
- Polyvinyl chloride.
Inexpensive type of coloring compositions. Experts advise using them in rooms where the risk of damage to painted surfaces is minimized. Without strict adherence to the manufacturer's instructions, it will not be possible to perform the work efficiently, because polyvinyl chloride compounds may peel off after drying.
- Alkyd.
This variety allows you to get a smooth surface. Alkyd paints are characterized by good plasticity and abrasion resistance. However, they fade if they are constantly exposed to sunlight.
- Oily.
Such paints are a traditional way of painting MDF. Compositions of this type protect surfaces from water.
Oil-based paint and varnish material Source gidpokraske.ru
See also: Catalog of companies that specialize in paints and varnishes and related work
Paints and varnishes are selected for the specific operating conditions of finely dispersed fraction slabs. Personal preferences and available budget are taken into account. At the same time, manufacturers offer a wide range of such products.
Many experts prefer polyurethane enamels. After their application, the result is a layer that is not harmed by household chemicals. Such compositions do not emit an unpleasant odor.
Types of varnishes for MDF panels
In some cases, MDF wall panels are not painted, but varnished. This approach is very widespread, although it is considered more complex and expensive.
Lacquered panels certainly look very noble and attractive. Varnishing allows you to emphasize the natural shade of the material, give it shine and pleasant smoothness.
Applying varnish to MDF is a painstaking process that requires care, accuracy and certain knowledge regarding the specifics of the technique. Varnishing occurs differently in open and closed spaces, and the process is modified in accordance with the potential format of use of the product.
In total, there are eight traditional types of varnish coating for MDF boards. Let us describe each of these varieties in more detail.
- Alcohol varnish
To create the desired consistency, special thick resins of artificial origin are mixed with industrial alcohol. Such varnishes are inexpensive and are considered average in quality. As for the drying process, on average it will not take more than half an hour, although to achieve a guaranteed result it is recommended to allocate up to 1 hour for drying. Much will depend on how many layers and in what humidity the alcohol varnish was applied.
- Epoxy varnish
It contains two components that provide maximum protection against mechanical damage. This coating increases the strength of the MDF panel several times, and is therefore perfect for painting countertops. In addition to impact resistance, epoxy mixtures also guarantee protection against the influence of moisture and even water flows on the product. Accordingly, this varnish can be used for garden furniture made from MDF sheets.
- Alkyd-urea varnish
The composition is again formed by two main ingredients - alkyd resins and urea. But in this case, a fixing element (hardener) is added to the mixture.
The main features of alkyd-urea coating are high strength and maximum light reflection. The latter property allows you to achieve a luxurious shine to the varnished surface.
- Nitrocellulose varnish
Once again, the name of the varnish reflects its basic composition. Varnishing with such a product allows you to achieve sufficient moisture resistance, but you can’t really count on protection from mechanical damage. The cost is considered quite reasonable, so if protection against impacts on the surface is not a critical aspect, this option can be considered a compromise solution.
- Polyester varnish
The composition in this case includes many different components, the main one of which is polyester resin.
The best option for situations where it is important to protect an MDF product from chemical exposure. In medical institutions and chemical laboratories, such varnishing is almost the only solution for MDF furniture.
In addition to resistance to chemicals, polyester varnishes are also resistant to overheating - they do not melt, crack, become cloudy or deform.
- Acrylic urethane varnish
The safest water-based composition. It is considered environmentally neutral and does not harm health.
At the same time, due to the peculiarities of the composition, acrylic-urethane varnish adheres perfectly to the surface of the MDF panel and dries quickly.
It is resistant to moisture (not water flows!) and changes in ambient temperature.
- Polyurethane varnish
It can be presented in one of three different variations - with one, two or three components in the composition.
This varnish takes as long as possible to dry. Sometimes the process can drag on for up to a week or two, but the end result is the hardest possible coating, which is almost impossible to damage in any way. Highest strength, aesthetic appearance and perfect adhesion. It is virtually impossible to separate the polyurethane varnish from the surface after it has completely dried - it literally becomes part of the MDF surface.
- Acrylic lacquer
Another safe option for health with minimal toxicity. Acrylic compounds can even be inhaled without much risk or discomfort. Moreover, acrylic varnish has no effect even on food with direct, long-term contact. This makes it possible to varnish furniture for kitchens and catering areas with acrylic.
Such varnishes can be diluted with clean water to achieve the desired consistency. As a result, the coating is more or less dense. The degree of transparency of the varnish and its strength can be controlled accordingly. In general, acrylic varnish occupies a middle position in its performance characteristics and stands out only for its environmental friendliness.
Dyeing technology
The process of painting MDF with colored polyurethane enamels includes several stages:
- grinding;
- primer;
- direct painting;
- drying.
Grinding
For good adhesion of the paint and varnish coating, it is necessary to sand the products being processed, be it facades or wall panels. For this we use:
- dry sandpaper;
- Scotch Brite - a soft, fine-grained abrasive;
- Underground grinding machines.
If the product is small, then sandpaper on a foam rubber base with a gradation of P220-P280 is used. For flat surfaces, 700 series sanding mats with fine-grained abrasive are used. The same materials will help remove excess primer and fill in scratches before painting.
The surface directly on which the paint will be applied is cleaned. After cleaning, the surface must be degreased with anti-silicone.
putty
MDF is prepared carefully for painting; sanding alone will not get rid of it. If there are visible flaws (cracks, dents), then the surface in these areas must be puttied, thereby leveling the surface.
For puttying, acrylic putty for wood is best suited; it should be applied and smoothed with a special rubber spatula.
Primer
For flat products it is better to use universal white polyurethane primer LBR30. The content of a large amount of resin in it gives a minimal tendency to shrinkage. Suitable for matte and glossy finishes. For the latter, where every defect is visible on the surface, the preparation requirements are an order of magnitude higher. The best results are obtained by using polyester primers.
Before painting the panels, they must be thoroughly prepared. First make a working mixture. To do this you need to take:
- primer LBR 30 – 100 parts by weight;
- hardener LNB 77 – 40 parts by weight;
- thinner LZC 1051 – 10 parts by weight.
All these components must be mixed together and the first layer of primer must be applied to the surface to be painted using a gun with an upper tank. Nozzle diameter 1.8 mm, air pressure 2-3 atmospheres. The material consumption should be 120 g per 1 m2. The optimal thickness of the resulting film is 120 microns. To completely complete the shrinkage process, the soil should be dried for 12 hours.
Before painting the product, it will need to be treated with abrasive again. For gloss, an emery tool with a finer grit is additionally used. After this, the surface will be prepared, and paint for MDF panels can be applied.
In the video: priming and sanding MDF.
Painting
You can paint wall panels with a brush, roller or spray gun. The room temperature should be about +20°C, air humidity - within 50-80%. Can be painted with matte or glossy enamel. But first you need to prepare working compositions. For matte enamel take:
- 100 parts by weight of enamel;
- 50 parts by weight of hardener;
- 30 parts by weight of thinner.
For glossy enamel, 70 parts of hardener are taken. The remaining components are in the same quantities. For gloss you should always use a slow thinner that will ensure good flow.
Painting of MDF panels should be done in a relatively spacious room, if these are internal structures (for example, facades or wall elements). The outside of the house should be finished in the warm season. The enamel consumption should be approximately 150g/m2. Medium density fiberboard or MDF dries completely in 24 hours.
To obtain a glossy finish, polishing should be done after 3 days. By this time, all polymerization processes will be completed. Using special additives on the surface of the product, you can create mother-of-pearl, metallic effects, and obtain corrugated waves.
Wet
MDF panels can be painted with alkyd or polyurethane enamel, as well as powder mixtures. Wet technology involves the use of a sprayer with appropriate pressure. If the paint is applied in two layers, intermediate sanding is necessary. The thickness of the layers is no more than 120 microns.
Painting surfaces must be free of small debris, dust, and insects. If they get in, they should be removed in a timely manner using a tool such as tweezers. Smudges formed on the painted surface after drying are removed with a stationery knife or fine-grained sandpaper.
The process of painting MDF furniture
You should not start painting without experience. It is better to practice painting individual neutral areas to develop general skills and understand the technique. It is most likely impossible to thoroughly understand how to paint MDF without practice.
The main tools for applying the coloring composition are a special spray gun or brushes. If the choice falls on brushes, then it is better to give preference to the softest ones possible, preferably with strong and flexible bristles.
It is important to think through the process of drying the painted product in advance - there should be enough space, and the room should be ventilated, with a temperature of about +20 degrees or more. Only in this case will the paint actually lie as expected.
The main stages of painting MDF facades:
Stage 1. Prepare the MDF surface.
At the first stage, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the panel to be painted. Traditionally, you will need to degrease, remove contaminants - dust, debris, and also dry the MDF board. Separately, it is necessary to mention sanding - this is a mandatory step, which is necessary for maximum adhesion of the paint to the surface.
By the way, for large-scale work, it is much more expedient not to manually clean every 10 cm of surface, but to use automatic devices - a grinding machine or similar units. It is important to take safety precautions when sanding. For example, in order to avoid hewn particles of the MDF surface from getting into the respiratory tract, it is worth working in a respirator. By the way, it will also be useful during the process of painting or varnishing - the smell in this case can be quite pungent.
Stage 2. Elimination of the consequences of grinding.
As already mentioned, during the cleaning process a lot of small particles appear that cannot be wiped off the MDF sheet with one movement of a rag. This is where vacuum cleaners, compressors, or at least thick brushes come to the rescue.
When all the debris has been removed, it is worth checking the surface for smoothness. If there are protruding particles, they will have to be removed separately.
Stage 3. Applying primer.
A primer is not always necessary, but it is definitely never superfluous. In other words, if we are not talking about oil paint, then you can do without a primer, although its presence will be beneficial in any case.
Ideally, two different compositions should be used for the primer, which are applied sequentially one after another. First you need to wait for the first layer to dry before applying the second. The main condition here is to avoid excessive accumulations of primer in certain places. Such “puddles” will eventually form unevenness and interfere with accurate, high-quality and uniform painting.
Preliminary calculation of the primer is made according to the principle of 100 g of composition per square meter of MDF surface.
Using brushes to apply primer is not the best solution, because the fluff will leave marks anyway, and the point of primer is to make the surface smooth.
In terms of application, attention should first be paid to the sides and ends of the product, and only then move on to the main area.
Stage 4. Cleaning the primer.
Here you will no longer need sandpaper, but softer materials. For example, a thick sponge or washcloth is ideal. There are special construction sponges designed just for such purposes.
The most important thing here is to ensure that the surface becomes as uniform as possible, without receiving mechanical damage in the form of scratches, even the smallest ones.
Stage 5. Re-dust removal.
We repeat stage 2 - use a vacuum cleaner or hairdryer to remove small particles formed when cleaning the soil.
Stage 6: Re-priming.
This stage is additional and is not always used. The main task of re-priming is to achieve the most uniform, dense surface and at the same time a more dense, rich color when painting MDF boards. In addition, due to the thickening of the surface, the strength of the product increases.
Stage 7. Preparation of the coloring composition.
What exactly will be done at this stage directly depends on the characteristics of the chosen paint. We recommend that you always carefully study the packaging, consult with sellers and visit the websites of manufacturers of certain formulations.
Stage 8. Direct staining.
If you use a brush, then it is better to take a composition that is thicker than what would be suitable for a sprayer. At the same time, the sprayer certainly gives a more uniform, predictable result when painting.
The ideal option is two layers of paint applied in different directions.
If we talk about calculating the consumption of the coloring composition, then on average about 80-150 g are allocated per square meter.
Stage 9. Varnishing.
A completely optional step in some cases and inevitable in other cases. Painting of furniture facades must be completed with varnishing. Only in this case can the durability and attractive appearance of the product be achieved.
Features of painting various types of furniture
Each material has its own subtleties and nuances that should be taken into account when working.
Painting MDF furniture
The surfaces are freed from the old coating, cleaned and degreased. Next, apply a layer of acrylic primer. It will help level the surfaces, close all pores and provide an even layer of paint. The coloring composition can be applied in various ways:
- spray can;
- spray gun;
- roller;
- with a brush.
If, when painting MDF furniture at home, it is necessary to obtain a rich, deep tone, several layers are made, each of which is dried. The final stage is varnishing. It will add shine and protect against adverse external factors.
Painting chipboard furniture
The first steps in this option of painting furniture are standard - the surfaces are freed from the old coating, sanded, covered with a layer of primer, and, if necessary, putty. The peculiarity of working with such a surface is that the material is covered with veneer or varnish, laminated, or laminated. Pre-treatment depends on the type of surface.
Painted chipboards are subjected to heat treatment (for example, with a construction hair dryer). Soft paint can be easily removed with a spatula. If you don't have a hairdryer, you can use an iron. The surfaces are ironed through the foil, after which the paint can be removed very easily. The veneer or laminated layer is removed with sandpaper. Dust is swept away with a brush; you should not wipe the surface with a rag or sponge - the dust will get into the pores of the wood.
To paint chipboard furniture, you can use alkyd, oil or acrylic paints. The choice depends on the characteristics of the room. In the kitchen and bathroom, alkyd compounds that are resistant to moisture and microorganisms are best suited. For bedrooms and children's rooms, choose acrylic that does not have an unpleasant odor.
Features of painting furniture made of chipboard with your own hands:
After applying and drying the first layer, you should carefully smooth out all the unevenness and roughness with fine-grain sandpaper. Then apply a second layer.
Varnishes are also used for chipboard; they will protect the surfaces from moisture and mold.
Alkyd, alcohol, and epoxy compounds are suitable.
If you have to paint a cabinet in an unassembled state, you need to work very slowly and in small layers, this will help to avoid drips.
Painting natural wood furniture
Most often, instead of painting furniture, it is treated with varnish. But if the surfaces previously had a coloring composition, it should be renewed. Preliminary preparation is standard, the only caveat is that natural material will require so-called “lint removal.” To do this, the surfaces are covered with a layer of stain or other wet composition, such as varnish.
After preparation, a layer of paint is applied. You can use any type of furniture painting (tinting, staining, varnishing).
Stain is used for tinting; it perfectly emphasizes the beautiful texture of natural wood. Can be wax, alcohol, water or oil.
Technology for painting solid wood furniture with stain:
- The composition is applied with a flute brush.
- If you need to make two layers, dry each thoroughly.
It is important to distribute the composition evenly over the surface, otherwise stains will appear. Paint options for painting wood furniture:
Paint options for painting wood furniture:
- If the item is located in a room with high humidity, a water-based one is suitable.
- The best option for painting children's furniture is acrylic. It is environmentally friendly, odorless, and dries quickly.
- Furniture compositions must be labeled with the “Eco Label” designation, this indicates safety.
- Latex and acrylic compositions are suitable for the bathroom. For the kitchen - water-based, odorless.
- Previously, painting wooden furniture with oil was considered the most successful option, but this composition takes a long time to dry and has an unpleasant odor. It has been replaced by modern silicone paints.
The type of wood affects how much compound is needed. Cedar, pine and fir absorb paint best. Birch, maple, and beech are much more economical.
MDF varnishing process. Video.
It has already been said that applying varnish to painted MDF is not an easy task, requiring some skills and great care. Moreover, it has long been noted that higher-quality varnishes are applied more easily and dry more easily than low-grade, cheap alternatives.
By analogy with painting, we will divide the process of coating the surface of furniture with varnish into successive stages.
Stage 1. Preparing the varnish.
It is necessary to dilute or simply pour the varnish into a container from which it will be convenient to apply it to the product.
Stage 2. Application.
The ends and protruding parts are varnished first, then you can move on to flat surfaces. This is a universal approach that works with all products.
Stage 3. Cleaning.
It is recommended to carefully treat the dried first layer of varnish with a special abrasive material. In specialized stores you can buy special fiber for wiping varnished surfaces. In other cases, you can use a sponge or washcloth again.
To perform better, you can moisten the varnish with water. This solution will prevent dust from rising and at the same time make it possible to clearly monitor the smoothness of the varnish.
Grinding is one of the most labor-intensive and time-consuming processes.
Stage 4. Getting rid of dust.
Once again, the cleaning should be completed by removing the remaining small particles. Sanding may result in more or less debris - this has to be controlled on an individual basis. The effectiveness of cleaning is checked visually.
Stage 5. Polishing the varnished product.
Neglecting polishing is a big mistake, leading to clouding of the varnished product and other damage.
The process will require a special construction wheel and polishing paste. Without these two tools, it will be impossible to implement the polishing stage. The polishing paste is applied to the circle in approximately a millimeter layer. Next, the paste is distributed by rotating the circle and rubbed into the surface of the MDF.
Additional polishing can be provided with separate reflective compounds.
How to remove old coating from MDF board
Often, in the context of MDF, the more pressing task is not the task of new staining, but the task of eliminating the consequences of the previous one. This applies to both unsuccessful painting or varnishing and the influence of time. Paint for MDF facades usually comes off extremely reluctantly and, as practice shows, even if there are defects, it can be quite difficult to clean the entire surface.
There are several ways to remove paintwork from MDF:
- Mechanical. In this case, simple scraping of paint or varnish is used with a spatula, a drill attachment in the form of a metal brush, or a grinder. This is an extremely labor-intensive and rather dirty process.
- Temperature. The idea is to heat the surface. A hair dryer will allow you to reach the desired temperature. As a result, the varnish or paint softens and will come off much easier; sometimes it is possible to remove the painted layer like the skin of a banana.
- Chemical. The task again is to soften the paintwork. This is only achieved through special solvents, which must be applied to the surface and covered with polyethylene for a while.
Painted MDF furniture facades have been the best solution for many decades and allow you to revive almost any product. Moreover, it is high-quality painting and varnishing that can guarantee an item a long life and protection from obsolescence - both physical and moral.
